I wake up around 9 a.m., a bit late for my taste, but good enough for the little walk I intended for the day. I check out at 10 a.m., leave my bike chained at the hotel, and get some sweet bread from Mulino Bianco for breakfast (I take enough stock for 3 days, it's light anyways). I start walking up the SP92 road, following the 'Etna Sud' direction. The road takes 19km and climbs up about 1000m up to the Sapienza refuge, where I intend to pass another night. The time goes slowly, and I have loads of time to look at the wasteland around me. Most of it is covered by the lava debris from 1983. I hit the border of the Etna National Park and continue climbing. Lots of cars going up and down pass me by, some greet me by honking. Thanks guys, I don't need a ride, walking is good for you.The landscape becomes monotonous soon enough: grayish lava and volcanic rocks, covered in visps of mist.
I make it to the Sapienza area before 16:00. I check in: man, are they expensive! 75€ for a halfboard... I take it, no other choice. I put on my 'second layers' and go to check out the souvenir shops. I end up with a 1:25000 map of the Etna mountain, volcanic rock bracelets, a small polar vest, and arancini for the day after. It's a pity I can't see much of the mountain in these conditions... it even starts snowing. The dinner is delicious, and the cook promises to wrap some food up for me for the next day, since I'll be leaving before breakfast time.
DAY3 (January 3rd, 2011)
At the checkout, I ask for the weather forecast. I get a mixed blessing: sunny morning and noon, but clouds and snow in the afternoon. It's 7:15 a.m. that I leave. It takes me more than 30 mins to find the start of the trail down from the SP92 road, but the compass, altimeter and map help me do the job. Today's goal is to achieve the Brunek Refuge on the North-East side of Etna, through a 43km trail called 'Pista Altoalpina'.
The morning is just lovely. I look over to the seaside, to see the warm sun pouring over the horizon onto the SP92 road. I try to find the small dirt road to lead me to the Pista Altoalpina, for some 40min in vain. Finally, I decide to make use of the hardware: with the help of the compass and the altimeter I reach the starting point soon enough. I follow a broad dirt road covered with a few centimeters of snow. I'm in the woods: for once it's pines, then oak forest, it keeps on changing with the distance. Lavic debris to the left and to the right. I pass a few refuges: in Italy it means unguarded shelters of wood or stone, with a few banks to sit on, and a fireplace to keep yourself warm. I have the west slopes of Etna to my right. The sun is shining through the woods, the air is crisp. I'm keeping up a slow trot on the flat and downhill sections. I march up the slopes: I want to save as much strength as possible for the day after.
Around 11 a.m., I take a deviation from the main road to hike through the ragged lava debris of 1976. The passage is marked solely by piled rocks, and I take care to add a few of my own. I join the main road once again, and stop to have my lunch around noon. It's cold arancinini with some fruit for desert. I continue northwards and soon enter the Bosco di Maletto: a dense oak forest. After less than 2km, the trail turns North-East, and soon enough I arrive at Rifugio la Casermetta. Or what's left of it: the ruins of a larged dwelling present a sad view. I cross another solidified lava stream, and follow the trail that is now clearly heading eastwards. I'm at about 1500m a.s.l.: from here, the Etna peak looks quite distant, and clouds and fog are condensing above. It's afternoon, and there's maybe 5 km left to the Ragabo Refuge. I'm passing through Lava del Passo dei Dammusi, with weird lava formations.
Now, the piste is cutting through a vast lava bed of 1911 and 1923, bathed in wisps of fog. Right around the corner, lava of 2003. Afterwards, the scarce trees are getting denser again, and reform a strong oak forest. I'm enjoying the last 2K towards the refuge: it's getting darker now. Finally, I hit the crossroads of Mareneve. I can see the refuge lights from far. I made the traverse to the North-East side, 43 kilometers of it, in some 9hours, taking two 10-minute breaks, not including, of course, the time to take some 150 photos, and consult the map on numerous times.
I take time to explain to the refuge crew which way I arrived by, and what I would like to do tomorrow. They strongly discourage me from going to the crater area, because of ongoing eruptions, and a snowy weather forecast. I study the maps and discuss the trail conditions with the chief, and after all decide to take my chances. After an exhausting day, I take a rest at the fireplace, and get myself ready for bed.
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