PROLOGUE
A snow covered mountain, sloping towards the early sun, scattered volcanic debris marking the outline of the route, heavy clouds curling beneath and above, covering or revealing the summit area. Crisp air, frozen water hose, smoking craters. Not a soul on the mountain. It's mine. I am the queen of the hill. How did I get there?
DAY1 (January 1st, 2011)
I abandoned the New Year's Party at 5a.m. I get up before 10 a.m., start packing at speed to check out of the hostel at 11 a.m.. I choose the 'absolute minimum' to take on the trip: documents, money, photo camera, mobile, compass, my Suunto watch, mp3 player, a tourist map of Etna I purchased in a local library. Long running tights, calf warmers, polar underlayer, a pair of Salomon Speedcross 2 GTX W, Salomon gaiters, two technical T-s (one of them is meant for Tris, with pockets sewed on the back of the waist), a long sleeve GTX, a small wind-stopper vest, a neck scarf, a bonnet, sunglasses, spare socks etc. I include a 2l water bladder (to fill up on the mountain), a water belt (I fill the bottle with Isostar Long NRG drink), several high NRG and cereal bars, as well as energy gels from Isostar, then dried bananas, apples, arancini bought at a local food market. To sum up, the stuff I'm not currently wearing I manage to fit into a generously filled 5l backpack, a water belt, a small document bag, and a shopping bag attatched to the bike head.
It's around noon that I get on the bike, with a road map of Sicily and a compass in hand. My goal for today in Nicolosi: a small village on the Southern slope of Etna, 900m higher and 30km away from Catania. Two elderly men I meet on the street advise me to follow the signs for Mascalucia, and try to explain to me how to avoid passing through the highway. In vain! Following an innocent-looking small road, with an 'Etna' sign on it, I end up in the middle of the highway! SHIT! No bike helmet, and the road is climbing, can't turn back! Here, a great surprise: all the cars behind me stop, honking urgently, and let me pass to the right-most piste, where I can at least go on until the next exit. Uuuuufffff.... Alright. After less than 2km I am able to get off the highway. I'm somewhere close to the Tremestieri, and I follow the signs for San Giovanni la Punta. From there, I take on the direction of Mascalucia. The gentle rain takes on intensity. Shit, it's pouring cats and dogs. Well, it's still +15C, so it's ok. I finally choose to pull over and have a snack, despite the rain. 5min after I've stopped, a jeep stops by and the driver asks me where I'm going. I say: Nicolosi. The guy claims he's a pro sportsman, an experienced biker and, if I got him right, an owner of a triathlon club. And, that on days like this, he recommends indoor biking. You know, you can catch a cold in the rain. And the road is going up LIKE THIS. So he offers me a lift, or, should I choose to be stubborn enough to go on, his jacket. I do choose the stubborn way, but accept his mobile number, in case I need help. Ye gods, luckily we're not all that pro, eh?
From where I stopped, I follow for Mascalucia and Nicolosi. Soon enough I'm in the village! Now just to follow the little streets to arrive at my B&B.I arrive at the Etna Garden Park around 16:00 with some help from a local driver. Wet but happy, and believe me, with that extra edge of satisfaction over certain triathletes. My room is warm and so is the shower. I fall asleep almost immediately.
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